ESCORT TURBO SERIES 1
ONLY available in white

It took over from where the RS1600i left off but with more power bigger arches and It uses the great Garret AirResearch T3 turbocharger.

As we all know they can take a lot more boost than the were given and its rare to find one without some form of modification, from a stage 1 chip to 2 litre conversions. We love em! we have one as our project car so that says something. Because of its no compromise style and shot life span and rally intentions it has become a modern classic.


ENGINE
The 1.6 CVH was fitted with Garret T03 turbocharger . Compression was lowered with 'flat top' pistons. The gearbox was fitted with a LSD and had a stiffer casing and a final drive of 4,27:1.
CHASSIS
Suspension was from the RS1600i with longitudinally mounted supporting arms plus separate anti-roll bar.
INTERIOR- bodywork
Custom Pack included sunroof, elec windows, opening rear quarters, central locking, tinted glass and Recaros. Only in white with colour-coded wheelarches spoilers and front grille.

Series 1 RS Turbo was produced in germany in right and left hand drive, from December 1984 to December 1985. In total there were 8064 made for the UK. It was replaced by the series II which was not as hard edged as the series I.

Body
Type: pressed steel monocoque Escort three-door hatchback shell with Ford RS
bodykit including front spoiler and tailgate spoiler.

Colours
Diamond White.

Engine
Type: CVH
Capacity: 1596cc
Bore/stroke: 79.96 mm x 79.52 mm
Compression ratio: 8.3:1
Max power: 132 bhp @ 6000 rpm
Max torque: 133 lbf.ft @ 3000 rpm
Cylinders: four, in-line
Cylinder head: alloy
Block: cast iron
Installation: front-mounted, transverse
Valve gear: two cylinders per head, operated by belt driven overhead camshaft
Induction: Garrett T3 turbo, intercooler, Bosch KE-jetronic fuel injection

Transmission
Type: front-wheel-drive
Gearbox: five-speed Ford manual with 218mm clutch, viscous limited slip differential
Internal ratios: 1st, 3.15:1; 2nd, 1.91:1; 3rd, 1.27:1; 4th, 0.95:1; 5th, 0.76:1
Final drive: 4.27:1

Suspension
Front: MacPherson struts, tie bar arrangement with separate 16mm anti-roll bar
Rear: independent with transverse trailing arms, coil springs, telescopic dampers and
12mm anti-roll bar

Steering
Type: variable-ratio rack-and-pinion

Brakes
System: vacuum servo-assisted dual circuit hydraulic
Front: 240mm ventilated discs
Rear: 203mm drums

Wheels & Tyres
Wheels: seven-spoke RS alloys, 6x15
Tyres: 195/50 VR15

Performance
Max speed: 132 mph
0-60 mph: 7.8 sec



Identity
You’ll find the chassis numbers on the front slam panel and stamped directly on the
driver’s side floorplan. On the floorplan it’s hidden under the cut-away carpet and if
there’s any fresh paint or welding in this area then walk away.

Bodywork
Bottom line is you need to check for rust. Check the battery tray, chassis runners
(especially the rear section), front and rear wings (the kit can hide some bad rust),
bulkhead, plus give the scuttle panel a good prod. Another problem is crash damage.
Look for mismatched panel colours, overspray, large panel gaps and wonky filled
patches. Check the car under artificial light for signs of bad re-painting. This is where
street lights are gold mine.

Engine
Even though the CVH is about as tough as they come, turbocharging is still going to
take its toll. Blue smoke from the oil in the chambers is a sure sign of wear and could
mean either piston rings, valve stems, pistons or cylinder bores are up the duff. Blown
head gaskets area risk with modified boost pressures and cam belts will have needed
to be changed fairly often, so ask for some history. Even if its receipts for changed
parts. All goes to verify things..no matter how little.

Transmission
The Series One gearbox was basically a beefed-up version of the XR3i’s. Some
people fit a cheaper XR box when the RST’s original gives up. The only problem with
this is that the car will then be missing the vital LSD that the S1 came with. Other
points of concern are sloppy changes which could be the result of a slack linkage, plus
the synchro mesh isn’t adverse to a bit of stripping.

Suspension
The competition-derived set-up is more than adequate for fast road use, and
aftermarket stuff will detract from the car’s originality and value – unless that’s what
you want. Be cautious of cars that have been lowered too heavily, as their suspension
geometry will be out so much that the ride will be ruined and you’ll go through tyres
like you’re driving on broken glass.

Brakes
The Escort RS Turbo is prone to warping its discs. A lack of feel through the pedal is
not unusual, but watch for shuddering through the steering wheel.

Interior
Shabby Recaros are a big turn off. Getting replacement trim is expensive and timeconsuming
(If you can find any !!!). But if you’re angling for a full leather retrim it’s
not going to bother you that much – of course, you don’t want to tell the person
selling the car this. Also check the carpets...a sure tell-tale sign if the mileage matches
the condition etc. This part is quite often missed by people when “tidying” the car for
sale.


Below £2000
Look carefully at cars in this price range. They will need a lot of tidying and quite a
bit of money spent on them. You could end up with a bargain or a complete rust
bucket. Also look out for fakes…if in doubt, double check the chassis numbers and
contact the RS Owners Club. They can verify if its real or not.

£2000 – 3000
Spend this kind of money and you’ll have a good example on the drive. It’ll be
straight and honest, but don’t expect it to win any awards. There’s likely to be a fair
few miles and owners on the logbook too. Basically, it’ll be a good used buy that
looks respectable and drives well.

£4500+
Pay this money and you’ve every right to expect an excellent example in return. Cars
will be very clean with FSH, few owners and low mileage. Watch out for messed
around cars where the vendor’s trying hopelessly to get his money back. Concours
class winners are expected when you reach these prices upwards.

REMEMBER: THESE PRICES ARE JUST A GUIDLINE.



Biggest Rims
It is possible to fit quite large rims to the S1. 18’s have been done. However, this will
require some severe arch mods (inc, trimming of the kit). Your better off sticking to
the 15’s or going up one to 16’s. Just get the org. wheels refurbished or
polished…they look the biz.

Engine Tech
Ford took the 1600 CVH and bolted on its own KE-Jetronic fuel injection (unlike the
K-Jetronic found on the XR3i, on which it was based). A T3 blower and intercooler
were added and the internals of the engine beefed up to cope with the pressure of the
forced induction.

Price When New
Back in 1985 you were expected to part with £9,250 + £470 for the Custom Pack.